Surfing at Derdesteen

King Spike

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Tue, 24 Jan 2006 13:28:00 +0000

After my recent "observation" about the loss of the free webcam service, I thought it would be worth reminding everyone about the amazing surf information service that has been provided by Spike for umpteen years now.

Spike's thrice-weekly email surf report is eagerly awaited by many, and in my opinion, its getting consistently better and better. What is particularly cool is how accurate his associated weather reports are, in particular, the prospects for tolerable wind conditions.

Recent case in point - Sunday 22 Jan. Spike predicted a windy day, but said it would die out in the late afternoon. He also predicted a decent sized swell.

"I'm going surfing this afternoon", I told everyone. "No way" they all said, "this wind is going nowhere."

"Spike said it go away", said I, confidently.

And true enough, come 6pm, a fantastic sunset surf was enjoyed by myself, and what I can only presume were about 50 other Spike readers (Derdes was amazingly full, considering the wind that had been pumping just an hour earlier)

Check out Spike's website (and email subscription service) here

End of an Era

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Sun, 01 Jan 2006 12:38:00 +0000

Should you click on the link on the right to get to the Big Bay webcam, you'll have noticed that it now only provides a 12 hour delayed feed, with the live picture requiring a subscription (or you can get images via premium mms messages on your cell phone).

One can't dispute with their right to charge for what must be an expensive setup to run, but the cost for me is a bit steep. It was a great service while it was free, and one that will be sorely missed.

Summer and Surfing?

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Sun, 01 Jan 2006 12:32:00 +0000

It's a regular bitch, but summer is a bad time for surfing the west coast of Cape Town. The howling south-easter that makes it one of the premier windsurfing and kitesurfing locations in the world, makes for grim surfing. Days with swell and no wind are rare indeed, and all the sweeter when they do happen. I enjoyed an epic pulse recently - didn't last long, however - the wind came up and that, together with the damn northbound current, meant an all too brief moment of fun in the sun.

The good part was that the sands have shifted at Derdesteen again, and as of this moment (Dec 05/Jan 06), the waves are breaking nicely. The latter part of winter and the early part of summer Derdesteen was a place to avoid, what with waves barely forming and nothing to surf except a violent break 2 yards from the shore!

The Sands of Time

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Mon, 16 May 2005 12:03:00 +0000

A few storms have applied themselves to the west coast of Cape Town, with pleasing consequences. The sand under the water at Derdesteen has started its Winter migration, shifting the swell and wave patterns. It always takes some getting used to - the waves break in subtly different ways when compared to the summer break, but almost invariably, break better.

This last weekend was indeed a case in point. A moderate offshore north westerley held up the waves, and some superb long rides were enoyed by the Derdesteen cognoscenti.

Winter at Last

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Wed, 11 May 2005 19:58:00 +0000

After one of the windier summers in recent times, we're finally able to enjoy the bounty of the cape winter. This last weekend had some monster swell, but as is common after a storm, the swell was ragged and not lined up. Derdesteen was a frantic mess of undirected anger, so I resigned myself to Big Bay, where the rocks at the perimeter of the bay had a stab at sorting out the mess. It was pretty cool - huge waves, but lacking in power and focus, so it was a lot more chilled than one might have thought. Apparently Monday thru to today has been much better.

Another cold front later this week, looking good for some great surf again this weekend.

Sweet sweet pain

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Thu, 13 Jan 2005 11:25:00 +0000

I've persuaded a few friends of mine to join me in shark territory to learn this thing called 'bodyboarding'. C is from Pretoria, so its been something of a culture shock for him. Unfortunately he got a new girlfriend at about the same time, so he (gasp) has on occasion chosen her over surfing (gasp).

J is an old buddy with a bizarre tolerance for cold water. If you see someone on a shortie wetsuit (springsuit) out in the water just after a 5 day southeaster (brr), then it'll be him.

How well I remember the pain of fighting big waves that seem to push you back further every time. How well I remember how you always seem to miss the lulls and hit set after set after set, leaving you shattered and requiring a half hour rest should you actually make it.

There's no real shortcuts to this surfing business. Sure, a bodyboard is an easy introduction in the sense that you can be catching waves and having fun pretty much immediately, but gaining paddling fitness, reading waves, timing sets vs lulls and finding rips all takes time.

When C and J look longingly at the surfboards that seem to glide effortlessly through the water, and wish they could swap boards, I have to laugh. They don't seem to believe me that paddling a surfboard is hard, probably harder even than a bodyboard. You may be a bit more hydrodynamic on a surfboard, but you ain't got flippers! Its technique and fitness, nothing more.

Picture below is J and Chris at Derdesteen, in a not-at-all-photoshopped image.

Places to take the posse

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:21:00 +0000

So, 'derdes' (or 'steens' as I prefer to call it) is not happening these days. That's normal for this time of the year. Last year I spent my summer kitesurfing, but this year I have a posse of bodyboarding rookies to mentor, who are typically gagging to go surfing, so we've had to explore the other 'inferior' spots.

We've been to:

table view/blouberg (or jetski junction as I prefer to call it) - this can, occasionally, be epic. Big swell and the right tide is required, but at times when the swell is too big for big bay and/or derdesteen, table view can be pumping. Unfortunately you typically find the best waves at the northern end, which has been designated as a jetski location, so expect an oily sheen on the water and a less than pure natural experience.
kamers (Kamer van Sewentien) - a fancy name for a very unassuming surf spot. This is located to the immediate north of Big Bay, and is essentially on the other side of the rocks forming Big Bay. Worth checking out when there is swell from a local front, and Big Bay is too messy and frantic. There is usually a nice little rip helping the journey out as well.
kreefte reef (crayfish factory) - not the REAL crayfish factory near Scarborough, but a small little reef in Melkbos that with the right swell and the low tide gives a nice little wave. Bit of a mission to get out there, especially with a surfboard, as there are lots of rocks and kelp to get past before a reasonable paddle out to the reef. This spot can be found at the car parking on 1st avenue at Melkbos, look to the left from the parking spot to see a breaking wave about 200m out to sea
22nd avenue in Melkbos - I've not been here myself, but J, one of the posse, finds it quite enjoyable when all else fails.
silverstroomstrand - this is the main beach at silverstroom, which works well even in tiny swell, so is the place to go when its flat flat flat at derdesteen. Allegedly there is an even better 'secret' spot at Silverstroom, perhaps one day someone will take me.

Big Bay...sigh

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Sat, 09 Oct 2004 09:10:00 +0000

Over recent weeks, I've been spending most of my surfing at Big Bay. Two reasons: firstly, Derdesteen hasn't been great (one or two pleasant surfs excepted), secondly, I've been breaking in a new surf buddy. He's not comfortable with the vast expanse of ocean you get at Derdesteen, preferring instead the illusory comfort of the surrounding rocks at Big Bay.

Another nice thing about Big Bay for beginners is the reduced swell and outbound current available on the extreme left (as you face the sea), making it very easy to get out beyond the break. And that's a little tip for those of you not very familiar with Big Bay.

Seasonal Changes

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Thu, 16 Sep 2004 13:18:00 +0000

The lack of posting on this site can be explained by three things:

- Derdesteen just isn't working anymore. In the last 6 weeks I've had one moderate surf. For the rest, the swell has either been too flat (not unusual in Spring/Summer) or just not working. I've been forced to surf at Big Bay, where it tends to close out and is typically very crowded. The sad fact of Derdesteen is that it is particularly vulnerable to seasonal changes, more so than most other beach breaks in Cape Town. Towards the end of winter the sands shift severely, rendering Derdesteen a washed-out mess for virtually all conditions.

- the swell has been dire

- I've been busy recruiting a new surf buddy. More details on that later.

The Rules

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Wed, 11 Aug 2004 07:51:00 +0000

Here are two sites explaining, with pictures, who has right of way on a wave.

This one is in "black and white"

This site is also good, and provides a nice summary of the priority rules:

Furthest Out or surfer that has been waiting longest
Furthest Inside - closest surfer to the peak of the breaking wave
First To Feet or first onto the wave has priority
Communication - make a call, Left or Right

Aches

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Mon, 02 Aug 2004 12:25:00 +0000

Would someone please persuade Ben to get on a plane? Three surfs in two days is just not natural! I'm a one-surf-a-week guy, goddammit. I ache in disturbing places, and it's taking all my concentration to not fall over sideways as I write this.

This last weekend has not been kind to Derdesteen. Friday brought in a cold front, leaving the exposed beach breaks (like Derdesteen) a mess. On Sunday morning I surfed Big Bay, which was a bit sheltered from the worst of the storm excess, while Sunday afternoon Ben and I found some cleaner swell in Table View. Table View can deliver some epic surfs in the right conditions. Sunday wasn't epic, but it was pretty good. Big big waves, but the waves were a bit flat and finding the take off spot was an exercise in hope.

Finally, this morning we went to Long Beach at Kommetjie. Swell was a lot smaller, but what a pleasure to have a predictable take off and lengthy rides. Weather has also improved, so I'm expecting big things from Derdesteen this week!

Pressure

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Tue, 27 Jul 2004 10:46:00 +0000

Well, there we were, six early-morning hopefuls. The swell wasn't great, the temperature freezing. Who was going to crack first? (It's always better if someone else is out there, it's much easier to judge the size and quality of the waves if someone is riding them.)

Ah well, I was determined to surf this morning, so under the watchful gaze of fellow surfers, I put on the wetsuit (brrr), got the board, and wondered off down to the water. This time, however, as I swam out, I was intensely aware of being watched. I'd have to watch my form very carefully. No more taking breaks between sets on the way out. I'd have to purposefully gather speed and dive under the waves, briskly paddling all the time. Once out I'd have to pick my waves well and catch them first time.

An odd experience at 9 a.m. on wintry Sunday morning. I got out past the break remarkably swiftly and caught some fine waves. 10 minutes later there were 5 other surfers in the water.

Surfing in the Wind

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Wed, 21 Jul 2004 10:45:00 +0000

With Ben being around for a short while, I'm currently surfing in conditions I wouldn't normally surf. On Sunday (18 July 2004) we went out to Derdesteen. The waves were admittedly pretty big, but there was quite a stiff cross-off shore wind blowing.

Now off-shore winds are not always a bad thing - they tend to hold up the wave nicely and often make for a better break. They also tend to keep the waves more "honest" - they break more consistently at a predictable place, you don't get cheeky waves trying to break too quickly.

However (and it's a big however) if it's even a little cross-shore, then it's another story. When you're on a boogie board (as I was on Sunday), surfing into the wind is a complete nightmare. The spray effectively renders you blind. It may be quite exhilarating, but ultimately its impossible to ride the wave properly if you can't see what it's doing. So you have to pick waves that are breaking with the wind.

Fortunately, at Derdesteen, with its A-framing breaks, that isn't too hard. Obviously you're somewhat limited in your choices, but at least you can still surf.

Although I've gotten rather used to my glassy Derdesteen surfs, I have to admit that on Sunday, with it's big waves and rough conditions, there was a certain elemental thrill to the whole experience.

Surf Buddies

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:32:00 +0000

Way back when I started surfing, I read the "Surfing FAQ" - apart from various long forgotten tips on how to judge wave size and the difference between point breaks and beach breaks, what I remember most vividly was the importance of having a "surf buddy". As my memory recalls, a true surf buddy would be able to tell you if "your butt crack was showing."

Sadly, a look at the surfing FAQ today reveals no such gem (and is poorer for the lack of it).

Anyway, this last weekend, I had a surf buddy again. Ben, my cousin-in-law, is in Cape Town again for a few weeks. Ben is too polite to make any comments on my butt crack visibility, but he's still a damn useful source of information. I promptly took him to my favourite spot (where else), and he was able to provide me with a few useful snippets.

For instance, when the surf is big, getting out at Derdesteen can be a challenge. I've learnt to look out for what I call "channels", gaps where breaks from the left and right end at the same place. Ben, on the other hand, says I should look out for "rips" which he says you can spot by looking for the sandy water. These rips, which are very localized offshore currents, will swiftly propel you out beyond the break.

Also of interest this weekend was that while Derdesteen often suffers from a stiff northbound current, by finding a rip and staying south of it, you can sometimes avoid that current (OK, you may no choice if you want better waves, but its useful information all the same).

Shark Repellant ?

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Thu, 15 Jul 2004 09:06:00 +0000

I recently read about a shark repellant device for surfers that relies on creating an electro-magnetic field around the user, that apparently sharks find irritating and unpleasant. Researched here in South Africa and South Australia, its available on the market to purchase. Some information about it is available here.

My suspicion is that surfers resent even having to put on a wetsuit. Putting on an extra device like this for a miniscule (but admittedly very real) threat is probably going to be too much trouble, especially as a sufficiently upset shark is hardly going to be troubled by a small electrical current. Perhaps the designers should find something that can rather be attached to the board (and is thus easier for surfers to ignore).

9 Mar 2005: Update: The link above has died from linkrot. Try the following link

9 Mar 2005: 2nd Update:

I've been reluctant to mention this, but about two weeks ago, I spotted a great white shark for the first time in natural conditions...at Derdesteen. Not sure what else to say. Naturally I got out the water asap (but went back in after half an hour). I've been in about four times since then, but its not been quite the same.

I'd always tried to convince myself that the sharks stayed away from Table Bay because of the nearby harbour (hoping that the electromagnetic radiation from the boats etc would drive them off). But the regular presence of seals meant I knew I was kidding myself. And now I know for sure I was.

I checked out the prices of these products, at about 500 US dollars they are very very pricy. Tough call...

A-frames - What's That?

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Fri, 09 Jul 2004 13:44:00 +0000

I keep referring to Derdesteen as an "A-frame"ing spot. What is that? Well, the picture below is an example of it (note that this picture is not from Derdesteen, although I hope to rectify that at some stage)

It's essentially a wave that is breaking to the left and the right - it rises to a peak at some point, and you can basically choose to go left or right, although your choice might be limited by your exact position (and the power of the wave).

The picture was borrowed from this site

Ode to Derdesteen

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Fri, 09 Jul 2004 13:13:00 +0000

Why Derdesteen?

fantastic setting, under the gaze of Table Mountain
big (even when crowded there's enough space for everyone)
excellent A-framing breaks in most conditions (i.e. where the swell is between 2 and 5 foot)
waves are fast and exciting

To those who say it lacks facilities, we say "Big Bay"; to those who say rides are too short, we say "the Atlantic isn't for sissies."

Webcam

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Fri, 09 Jul 2004 06:14:00 +0000

OK, it's not of Derdesteen itself, but this webcam is at Big Bay, which is about one mile south of Derdesteen and is an excellent indicator of what's happening in the area. In my experience, you can normally add 1 to 2 feet to the Big Bay swell to get an idea of what to expect at Derdesteen. This only applies in small to moderate swell, for swell > 6 foot all bets are off.

Is it Derdesteen or Derde Steen?

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Tue, 06 Jul 2004 09:39:00 +0000

OK, so I got some today. Came into work early, saw the sun was shining, surf report was favourable. Got there at about 4:30pm. I think most of the ferocity of the weekend was gone, but there was still some energy in the waves.

Now its not my intention to bore you with a catalog of my hits and misses, but rather to talk about derdesteen, west coast surfing, and surfing in general. To that end, a brief word about the spelling of the place.

A google search indicates that "Derde Steen" is more prevalent than "Derdesteen". I'm convinced, however, that my spelling is correct. Afrikaans place names that are made up of two or more words are invariably joined into one, such as "Tafelbaai" (Table Bay), "Riviersonderend" (River Without End) and Putsonderwater (Well Without Water). "Derde Steen" translates as "Third Stone" (referring to the third set of rocks north of Big Bay), so I think I'm safe in assuming it should be spelt without the space.

Coming up: why Derdesteen is so special for surfing

Sunday 4th of July

noreply@blogger.com (quantumf) — Sun, 04 Jul 2004 12:32:00 +0000

An inauspicious start! Despite putting in the hard work on Saturday (I looked after the kids *all* day), Sunday didn't turn out like it was supposed to. The surf report made grandiose claims of epic conditions, but I got nothing. I know Steens doesn't work in swell greater than about five foot (this was probably closer to ten), but I drove around and did the "should I or shouldn't I" thing at about three different spots. The swell was just too local, I guess, with waves coming thick and fast. That's just not fun.

Also, I should mention that it was something of a "comeback surf" - I've just recovered from a cold, and was really hoping for something a little less hectic. There were plenty of guys trying their luck in Big Bay, but it was breaking all over the place, and looked horrible.

Although it's hard to tell from this small picture, take it from me, there wasn't a soul in the water at Derdesteen.